The History of Early Native American Indian Jewelry - By: Cindy Amirkhan

Early Indian Jewelry as known today had its origin that predates Christianity. Turquoise found in the Hohokam Excavations in Arizona dates from 200 B.C. and in Mexico around 600BC – 700 BC. Other drilled beads date even earlier.

Turquoise deposits are limited geographically mainly to the Southwestern United States. Some Turquoise is found in Mexico but very little in comparison to other sites. Pre-historic Indians mined turquoise and turned it into jewelry, usually beads, and other hanging ornaments.

The evolution of jewelry to this day must be credited in part to the Navajo, who were greatly influenced by the Spanish from the late 16th century forward. The Navajo were in constant contact, some hostile, and some friendly with the Spanish. From these people the Indians began to appreciate some of the early Spanish Designs for personal adornments, such as the Moorish inspired Crescent and the Pomegranate Blossom that became key to the Navajo design and origin of the Squash Blossom necklace. The crescent shaped Naja or the Christian Cross did not reflect the Navajo’s appreciation for Christianity or the Moorish influence, rather to them is was simply an adornment of beauty and pride. If one person had one, others wanted one also and if possible, something even finer, so, the Pendant Cross and Naja evolved into a multitude of variations and design.

The actual date that the Navajos began making silver jewelry varies. Scholars seem to agree that Atsidi Sani, which means "old smith," was the first Navajo silversmith in the 1860’s. The early Navajo silver work concentrated on concho belts, bracelets, bow guards (Ketohs), tobacco flasks, and necklaces. Rings, earrings, pins, hair ornaments and bolo ties evolved from these, a full line of jewelry existed throughout the reservation by the 1880’s.

Early Navajo smiths used Mexican and U.S. coins as their source for silver. Sometimes with special orders from a local rancher or trader, they would receive silver candlesticks, teapots or other silver to melt down for their work. In 1890, the United States made it unlawful to deface their coinage but almost impossible to enforce, U.S. Coins continued to be used for jewelry making. Now that there was a demand for materials and tools, the reservation traders began to stock many of the items that were needed. Cutting, grinding and fine polishing materials were commercially more desirable than homemade items. This was the beginning of a new economy involving the Indians, traders, and eastern suppliers.

Very shortly following Atsidi Sani’s beginning, Navajo silversmithing as a craft spread across the area to the Zuni Pueblos and onto the Hopi Mesa. All the jewelry of the period was Navajo in style being of bright silver and big turquoise. As the years progressed, their Pueblo students gradually modified the style of the Navajo. For example, the Zunis since pre-historic times were excellent lapidaries; these skills slowly changed their work to the fine inlay and channel inlay we see today.

The Hopi change was more abrupt. In 1938 the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff, working with renowned Hopi smiths, Paul Saufkie and Fred Kabote began a program of developing a style that was inclusively Hopi. The “overlay” technique that they created involved the cutting of design in a silver sheet and then soldering this to a solid silver sheet. The designs were usually from pottery and Kachina symbols.

The Indian silversmiths of today cross tribal design boundaries with will and abandon. No longer can one look at a piece and say it’s Zuni Style, so it must be made by the Zunis. The Artist of today may incorporate in a single work all the styles available as well as his or her own innovations transcending tribal styles.

The evolution of jewelry to this day must be credited in part to the Navajo, who were greatly influenced by the Spanish from the late 16th century forward. The Navajo were in constant contact, some hostile, and some friendly with the Spanish. From these people the Indians began to appreciate some of the early Spanish Designs for personal adornments, such as the Moorish inspired Crescent and the Pomegranate Blossom that became key to the Navajo design and origin of the Squash Blossom necklace.

Cindy Amirkhan - A Twinkle in Time Remember, “Life is Too Short Not to Sparkle” – wear a piece of jewelry everyday and add color and sparkle to your world.
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